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How do I replace a Spin Basket in a Top-Load Washer?

Follow these steps to fix your issue:

  1. Shut off the electricity and water.

    Plug the wall outlet into the power cord. Wear gloves and turn off the water supply valves. Someone may be able to help you move the washer away from the wall.

  2. Lift the top panel.

    To keep the lid from flopping open and hitting your arms, tape it shut. The hinge brackets on the back of the washer need to be removed. The wire cover has a screw on it. The front of the top panel should be raised by about a quarter of an inch. Push the panel back a quarter of an inch to get it out of the brackets. Put the top panel against the wall.

  3. Remove the tub ring.

    Pull the bottom of the tub ring to release it from the lock tabs on the side of the wash tub. The tub ring can be removed from the washer.

  4. Remove the impeller.

    Attach the slot screwdriver to the notch in the base of the plastic cap. The bolt that secures the impeller to the drive motor shaft can be removed with a wrench. Pull the washer's impeller out.

  5. Pull the spin basket out of the washer tub.

    The wrench teeth should be engaged by the notch in the nut by positioning the wrench on top of it. To loosen the spanner nut, strike the arm of the wrench with a hammer. Remove the wrench from the washer by spinning the nut. Pull up on the spin basket to get rid of it. A retainer clip is used to secure the spin basket to the drive shaft inside the washer tub. To remove the retainer clip, follow the steps in the video.

  6. Install the new spin basket.

    Put the new spin basket on top of the shaft in the bottom of the tub and work it down until it is completely seated on the shaft. Place the wrench on the base of the basket. To snug the spanner nut, hand tighten the nut and use the wrench. Use reasonable force to strike the arm of the wrench with a hammer to tighten the nut. If your washer uses a clip to secure the spin basket to the drive shaft, follow the steps in the video to get the retainer clip back on.

  7. Reinstall the impeller.

    The drive motor shaft needs to be pushed down on the impeller. Put the bolt into the hole and tighten it. Remove the cap from the top of the impeller.

  8. Reinstall the tub ring.

    Push the tub ring down on the outer tub. The tabs should snap into the locked position if you press down on the sections.

  9. Reinstall the top panel.

    Carefully lower the top panel. Pull the panel forward about a quarter of an inch to get the brackets to engage. To lock it with the frame, push the panel back about a quarter of an inch. The washer lid has tape on it. The back of the control console has hinges on it. The screws need to be tightened firmly. Place the tabs on the right side of the wire cover in the slots and then line up the holes on the left side to install the mounting screw. Attach the wire cover to the mounting screw.

  10. Restore the water and power.

    The valves for the water supply should be turned on. The electrical outlet should be plugged into the washer. The washer must be returned to its original location.

  11. Calibrate the washer.

    When the washer is shut off, the basket is empty, and the lid is closed, you can enter the diagnostic mode. Within about 6 seconds, turn the control dial clockwise, counterclockwise and clockwise. When you successfullyactivate the diagnostic mode, the green status lights blink. If the status lights don't blink, turn the control dial one complete rotation counter-clockwise and try again. The Calibration Cycle can be selected in the diagnostic mode. The Calibration Cycle runs for 2 to 3 minutes after the light turns on. The washer shuts off when the lid is unlocked.

Time required: 45 minutes.

You would need the following tools: hammer, slot screwdriver, tape, work gloves.

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