Sorry, the web browser you're using is not supported by this website.

Please use Google Chrome, Firefox, Safari, or another browser to access Thank you.

Skip to main content

We use cookies to enhance your experience. For details on how we use cookies, collect data, & how to manage your consent please see our Cookie Policy & Privacy Policy.

How do I replace an Ice Maker in a Side-By-Side Refrigerator?

In the machine compartment next to the compressor, the drain tube is used to transfer the water from the evaporator to the drain pan, where it can evaporate. If the drain tube is damaged, the water won't drain from the tray and will overflow into the freezer or refrigerator compartment. If the drain tube is damaged you should replace it.

Most models of refrigerators have the ice maker assembly replaced. If the ice mold is damaged, replace the entire ice maker.

The bi-metal thermostat-trips, also known as the refrigerator defrost sensor, are used to detect when the temperature of the evaporator is getting hot enough to cause overheating. The power was cut off when the sensor tripped. frost builds up on the evaporator fins of the refrigerator and freezer if the defrost sensor trips. To check the sensor for continuity, you can use the volt-ohm meter. If the sensor doesn't show continuity at 0 degrees F, replace it.

The fan is on the assembly. The air is moved through the cabinet for cooling. If the fan is malfunctioning, replace it.

The frost from the evaporator is melted by the refrigerator automatic defrost system. The compressor stops, the heating element turns on, and the frost starts to melt. There is a drain pan next to the compressor in the machine compartment where the condensate flows through a drain tube. The water left the drain pan before the next thaw. Diagnostic and repair the problem if the defrost process fails.

The intervals between automatic defrost cycles in the refrigerator is controlled by the defrost timer. The control components in the device are moved by the motor of the defrost timer. When the control contacts in the defrost timer advance into the defrost cycle, the compressor stops and the defrost heater turns on for a period of time to melt frost off of the evaporator fins. This encourages more efficient exchange of heat. When the period of defrost ends, the defrost timer contacts switch back to allow normal cooling in the fridge.

There are ice makers and/or water dispensers in many refrigerators. A water leak can be caused by the broken water line in the refrigerator. Water lines inside the refrigerator are being replaced.

When the door is shut, the gasket on the fridge or freezer door prevents air from entering or escaping the cabinet. When the door is closed, a damaged gasket lets warm, moist air into the fridge. The door seal should be replaced if it's damaged.

Follow these steps to fix your issue:

  1. Shut off power and water to the refrigerator

    Shut off the circuit breaker on the refrigerator. The back of the refrigerator has a water line attached to it. The valve can be found on the wall behind the refrigerator or under the kitchen sink. If you want to keep the food fresh, move it to a cooler. Most refrigerated and frozen foods will not be affected by the lack of power for 60 minutes.

  2. Remove the ice maker's front cover

    In front of the ice maker, use tape to close the flipper cover on the left wall. Push up on the right side of the cover to release the plastic pin. Pull the cover off and then use a slot screwdriver to pry the pin from the brackets. Put a tape on the flipper.

  3. Remove the wire harness cover

    The screw that's under the ice maker module is in the rear right corner. Remove the cover that held the screw. The screw and plastic cover should be left alone.

  4. Remove the ice maker

    To slide the ice maker off its rails, push the tab on the left of the ice maker. Pull the wire harness out of the plug with the help of a slot screwdriver. The ice maker is in the freezer compartment. The freezer door needs to be closed.

  5. Remove the mounting plate

    On a flat surface, place the ice maker module upside down. The screws that secure the base mounting plate to the ice maker module can be removed using a 1/3-inch nut driver. The plastic base mounting plate is secured to the wire harness plug by locking tabs. The ice maker module can be released by pulling the wire harness plug from the base mounting plate. The old ice maker should be put away.

  6. Attach the mounting plate to the new ice maker assembly

    Push the plastic wire harness plug into the side of the mounting plate until the plastic locking tabs snap into place, then position the new ice maker in the bottom plastic plate. Place the screws on the bottom of the plate. The screws should be inserted past hand tight.

  7. Plug in the wire harness

    Place the ice maker near the mounting rails and plug the wire harness into the connection plug until the locking tab snaps into place.

  8. Slide the ice maker assembly onto the mounting rails

    Push the ice maker onto the rails inside the freezer compartment and you will be able to place the fill tube in the cup. Put the tube in the cup. Attach the locking tab to the ice maker module.

  9. Replace the wire harness cover

    Attach the plastic wire harness cover. Give the screws a firm twist as you tighten them until they stop turning. Don't get tense.

  10. Reattach the front cover

    Attach the left side pin to the mounting clip by placing the front plastic cover in front of it. Attach the right side pin to the top of the mounting clip. The flipper cover has tape in it.

  11. Restore water and electricity

    To restore the water supply to the refrigerator, open the shut-off valve. You can restore power by plugging in the refrigerator or the house circuit breaker.

  12. Disconnect the electrical power

    While the refrigerator is shut off, store any food that could degrade. Shut off the circuit breaker on the refrigerator.

  13. Remove shelf supports from the freezer

    There are shelves and baskets in the freezer compartment. Pull out the supports from the shelf on the right interior wall of the freezer. Refer to your owner's manual if you need to remove baskets and shelves from the freezer.

  14. Remove the back panel

    The back panel of the freezer has mounting screws on it. To release it, pull the bottom of the panel outward.

  15. Unclamp the defrost sensor from the evaporator

    The positioning of the sensor is noted. Release the metal clip that holds the sensor. If you take a digital photo of the defrost sensor, it will help you position the replacement correctly.

  16. Remove the defrost sensor

    Pull the defrost sensor out of the freezer by cutting the wires near it.

  17. Install the new defrost sensor

    Use a wire stripper to get rid of the insulation on the new sensor. The harness above the evaporator has pink and brown wire on it. The wires should be connected using wire nuts. Silicone sealant should be squeezed into the open ends of the wire nuts to keep the connection dry.

  18. Clip the defrost sensor onto the refrigerant line

    The sensor can be clipped onto the line. It should be positioned the same as the original defrost sensor. Push the wires above the evaporator if you don't disturb the sealant on the wire nuts. To keep the wires out of the way, use a cable tie.

  19. Reinstall the back panel

    Put the back panel back in place. The mounting rails can be cracked if the screws are tightened too much. Then snug the screws up with a final twist by rotating them. The baskets and shelves should be reinstalled.

  20. Restore electrical power

    You can restore power by plugging in the refrigerator or the house circuit breaker.

Time required:

45 minutes.

You would need the following tools:

1/4-inch nut driver, slot screwdriver, tape, work gloves.

Let's Get It Fixed!

HomeX virtual experts will assess your issue (for free!) and can resolve simple problems.

What Did You Think of This Article?

What Did You Think of This Article?

Shop Recommended ProductsShop HomeX Recommended Products